Pharmaceuticals, Vol. 18, Pages 1889: A Spectrochemically Driven Study: Identifying Phenolic-Rich Extracts from Helichrysum stoechas, Lavandula pedunculata, and Thymus mastichina with Potential to Revert Skin Aging Effects

Pharmaceuticals doi: 10.3390/ph18121889

Authors:
Mário Pedro Marques
Euclides Landim
Carla Varela
Ricardo M. F. da Costa
Joana Marques
Luís A. E. Batista de Carvalho
Ana Silva
Maria Teresa Cruz
Rebeca André
Patrícia Rijo
Maria Inês Dias
Aida Carvalho
Paulo J. Oliveira
Célia Cabral

Background/Objectives: Plants inhabiting mediterranean-influenced climatic zones, like Helichrysum stoechas (L.) Moench subsp. stoechas, Lavandula pedunculata (Mill.) Cav., and Thymus mastichina (L.) L. subsp. mastichina, have been scarcely investigated regarding their richness in phenolic compounds, herein explored as sources of skin anti-aging compounds. Methods: In this investigation, Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) in attenuated total reflectance (ATR) mode and high-performance liquid chromatography coupled with diode-array detection and electrospray ionization tandem mass spectrometry (HPLC-DAD-ESI/MSn) were employed to chemically characterize the hydroethanolic extracts (HEs), and their cell-free antioxidant potential was screened. Thereafter, non-toxic concentrations of HEs were determined in human skin cells using Alamar blue® and Sulforhodamine B assays. The cytoprotective and antioxidant effects of HEs were assessed in tert-butyl hydroperoxide-stimulated fibroblasts, their anti-inflammatory potential was studied in lipopolysaccharide-injured macrophages, and enzymatic inhibition assays were performed. Notably, the irritant effects of HEs were tested according to Test Guideline No. 439 of the Organization for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD). Results: The major compounds identified in the T. mastichina and L. pedunculata HEs were rosmarinic and salvianolic acid derivatives, while H. stoechas HE was mainly composed of caffeoyl and feruloyl derivatives, and O-glycosylated flavonoids. T. mastichina (≤0.4 mg/mL) exhibited significant cytoprotective, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant effects, as well as remarkable anti-hyaluronidase activity. Conclusions: Shedding light on the quantitative and qualitative chemical picture of these HEs highlighted T. mastichina as a promising candidate to target skin aging effects, which correlates with its phenolic content. Further investigation is warranted regarding its anti-aging pharmacological activity, which could lead to the development of plant-based skin anti-aging products.

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